Alder Vineyard ready for fine vintage

From the Tavistock Times 28 November 2013

The fruits of their labour have finally paid off after seven years for a family which has been establishing a vineyard at Lewdown.

Alder Vineyard has taken a lot of hard work and dedication but now its owners, Mike and Sarah Hodgetts, along with Sarah’s parents, Bob and Anne Westlake, last month had the pleasure of witnessing their first crop.

On October 11 they picked the first of five tonnes of white grapes from the its Madeleine Angevines.

Although not a bumper crop by vineyard standards, its owners are hoping its rich produce could in the next three years quadruple and could lead to wine production in the Lew Valley.

Sarah said: ‘The vineyard consists of 3,110 Madeleine Angevines, an old traditional French vine.

‘These were planted in three stages, and 550 Rondos (red grape), which were planted 18 months ago.

‘Growing vines is a very slow process. We want the vines to last a very long time, so slow growth is essential.

‘This year, year five, has seen our first harvest of five tonnes but it will take another three years before the whole vineyard is in full production.’

Seven years ago the family decided that their farm, which was previously a dairy farm, needed to diversify. Bob and Anne already had established Alder Sportswear, which specialised in wet suits and surf boards, but the farm needed a new direction.

Bob said: ‘We wanted to do something together as a family and one thing we all enjoy is a glass of wine so establishing a vineyard was something we agreed upon.

‘After seven years we found it drip feeds into our psyche. It’s hard work but there is so much to learn and eventually you eliminate the mistakes.

‘Most people who get in this business want to produce their own wine, but we did it the other way round and looked to just growing grapes.

‘All the indications from this first crop is we have a very exceptional single variety. Wine makers will pay a lot more for a single variety and lot less for a blended one as it could be anything.’

The family did their research before committing themselves to the enormous undertaking, visiting companies like Camel Valley in North Cornwall and Sharphams in South Devon, who proved quality grapes and wine can be produced on a firm commercial basis in the region.

In fact it was Ian A’Court, formerly of Sharphams, who introduced the family to a trellis system which is used in New Zealand.
The first two years they had to test and analyse the soil to make sure it was suitable.

Much of the graft has been done by Mike Hodgett, a builder by trade, who works continuously at the weekends and all through the summer evenings on the crop.

He said: ‘This is a very good site – south facing. Being on a slope the soil is well drained. It’s essential the good soil must not be waterlogged.

‘The biggest enemy is frost. We are up about 500 feet which is perfect for the vines. Too high and you get cold winds, too low and you get frost.’

It’s a year long process before the grapes are ready to harvest. It begins in January with pruning and the getting rid of old wood and rubbish, to help eliminate any disease. Then with the appearance of the buds in April/May the general tucking in and maintenance on the vines and vineyard begins with the spraying schedules.

This is closely followed by the appearance of the flowers sometime in July. Ideally they will appear within a two week window, then set, and produce a tiny grape. Then there is a 90 day wait while they swell and begin to ripen. Sugar and acid levels are checked regularly to identify when they are ready to harvest. When the first harvest was picked on October 11, it took a team of 11 three days to pick the five tonnes of white grapes.

The family are delighted with their first ever crop and said they could not have expected any better and are now hoping to produce 20 tonnes a year. Five tonnes is the equivalent of 4,200 bottles.

They have already sold their single variety from the Madeleine to wine producers Polgoon in Penzance and are looking to the future with the possibility of having their own wines to sale.

The family has already planted the Rondos, to produce a red wine, and has now added a few apple trees to branch into a little cider making.

Bob added: ‘We are not in any rush, we are taking our time to make sure what we produce is the best because it is done properly.’

Sarah, whose son 23 year-old Tom is also very much involved, concluded: ‘Being together and working as a family is so important and makes it worthwhile, especially as the next generation can join in.

‘Hopefully the vineyard that we have planted will be their legacy for years to come.’

After the success of the first crop the Westlakes and Hodgetts certainly deserve to raise a glass of white in small celebration of what they have achieved so far.

One testimony of the quality of the first crop comes from Andy Whiteman, who with his wife Rowena, runs the nearby Harris Arms at Portgate.

Andy, who has run an award winning vineyard in New Zealand himself, told the Times: ‘Every time I go there it just gets better and better.

‘The first crop is the best I have seen in this country in terms of layout. Any wine makers would be very proud to produce what they have done.

‘The way they have structured it is brilliant, absolutely amazing and the best I have seen in Europe and this country. The soil composition is remarkable.

‘The New Zealanders pride themselves on the way they do their posts and trellis work and if they saw this they would be in heaven.’

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